A Tale of Two Thanksgivings

“It was the best of times,
it was the worst of times

…

it was the spring of hope,
it was the winter of despair…”

December 2, 2018

Madeira Beach, Florida

 

Though Dickens, when penning his now immortal words amongst literary rhetoric, was referring to the contrast of two European cities during the French Revolution, their relatability and applicability have led to frequent quotation. In looking back at this past Thanksgiving, I cannot help but cite Dickens’ opening lines from A Tale of Two Cities.

Multiple times I have sat down and attempted to write an update for the blog. It certainly is not for a lack of worthy experiences through the course of my travels since the last post, but rather either circumstances requiring priority or the failure on my part to do the circumstances justice when translating to written word that has resulted in the lack of an update. One subject matter that has been the consistent focus of these attempted blog posts has been the blessing of fellow cruisers with whom Ziggy and I have traveled during our nearly two thousand miles from Pentwater, Michigan to, at the point of writing, Madeira Beach, Florida. When planning and dreaming of this trip, I knew it would be primarily a solo voyage – though a friend was to join me from Grand Haven down through much of the rivers, his eventual departure would be inevitable. From that point on, it would be just Ziggy and me.  It was the conversation with “Loopers” who frequented the little boat supply store where I worked while in college, that perhaps more than anything else, instilled the desire to one day complete the “Loop” myself. One consistency amongst these conversations was the “many wonderful people you’ll meet along the way.” Little did I know how true was this sentiment and how much of a blessing fellow cruisers would be during this trip. It has not just been the advice, technical expertise, or provision of needed components, but also the companionship of these people through the course of our journey. Though many “loopers” have “looked out” for me along the way, some of whom I mentioned in my prior post – Knights Kingdom in particular who, subsequent to writing that post stayed an extra day in Green Turtle Bay to see our arrival and send off Chad back to Michigan. Ziggy and I have been blessed beyond measure with the accompaniment of a cruising couple, who though not “Loopers,” as they are headed for the waters of the Caribbean with no plan to return back to Michigan. We first met in South Haven, Michigan, where I inquired about the mounting of their flexible solar panels, and then ran into them again along the barges of Logsdon Tug Service in Beardstown, Illinois, where they helped us off the docks. It was in Green Turtle Bay where they truly adopted this kid and his dog, being willing to travel at our slow pace – much slower than the speeds of which their boat is capable, planning anchorages where Ziggy could go ashore, advising on the many technical and mechanical issues, playing the role of the “Bandit” expertly timing their arrival into the locks between the faster power boats and my slow sailboat to keep the gates open for my arrival, trip planning and routing, numerous dinners, an onboard shower after a long couple days without facilities, but most of all, companionship and genuine friendship. While traveling down the rivers, I anticipated losing them after Mobile as they would be able to do longer passages without the worry of a little dog who needs to periodically find some grass – sure we would meet again, hopefully, in the Keys, but it seemed as though my trip through Florida would be alone. Knights Kingdom was in Florida well before me and the other “Loopers” were traveling at much different paces and time frames, leaving really no one else with whom we could travel.  As the true companions they are, Livin’ the Dream was willing to adjust their travels to continue accompanying me through the panhandle, even having to stay extra days in Mobile awaiting my mast to be pulled to have the mast mounted navigation lights fixed. Even though Chad returned to Michigan for work and school, way back up the rivers in Green Turtle Bay along the shores of Lake Barkley, Kentucky, leaving just “me and the dog” on the boat – we were not alone, thanks to the fellow cruisers mentioned above, that is, until Thanksgiving.

 

 

As we planned our way through the Panhandle, we knew that our courses would eventually diverge as they planned to cross directly to Clearwater while I planned to hop a bit further along the coast opting for the shorter crossing to either Stienhatchee or Cedar Key. With the north winds pushing out the water from Turner Marine along Dog River in Mobile Bay making for skinny water for Livin’ the Dream to depart, I was able, with my shoal draft, to sneak out a day early. We enjoyed beautiful sail across the bay to an anchorage along the ICW then headed the next day to the Pensacola Beach area where Ziggy and I reunited with Livin’ the Dream. This was our first night “alone” since Grand Haven, Michigan – either Chad was onboard, or we had another boat with whom we were traveling. Though on this evening we were “alone” it was not a sad experience as we knew that the following day, we would see the mast of the boat that accompanied us for so many miles, enter into our beautiful anchorage. From there, Ziggy and I traveled the ICW to Destin while Livin’ the Dream, due to their mast height, traveled outside. The days travels were alone, but that evening, we were rafted alongside each other – and this was the first town Ziggy and I were able to walk through together since about half way up the rivers. Plus, that night, we had dinner aboard Livin’ the Dream – a magical night as the sunset gave way to the flickering lights of Destin. From there, we both motor sailed to Panama City and the following day to Mexico Beach – again, two days where though their speed carried them off into the horizon, eventually, reunited at anchor, and celebrated Thanksgiving, an evening that represents the highest point of the trip and one that I will remember for the rest of my life.

 

After taking Ziggy ashore to relieve himself, we gathered together aboard Livin’ the Dream for a full Thanksgiving feast consisting of a gigantic chicken (as no boat oven sized Turkeys could be found), from scratch stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy, corn, and most importantly, good company. Together with Livin’ the Dream, we dinghied to shore where we walked the beach finding sand dollars and playing ball with Ziggy as the sun set over a coastline which only a few weeks prior had been ravaged by Hurricane Michael. We then reconvened for home-made pumpkin bars. With our bellies stuffed, Ziggy and I headed back to Albion knowing that the following day, we would go our separate ways, to hopefully see each other again in Key West. The next morning, we sailed outside in the Gulf, and I took a screenshot of the chartplotter as the AIS showed Livin’ the Dream’s course diverting to the southeast while I headed towards Apalachicola. I planned to enter via Government Cut, stay at a marina to recharge the batteries, then head out the next afternoon for an overnight crossing to Cedar Key, arriving sometime on Thanksgiving morning. However, in consistency with the sentiments of “the best laid plans of mice and men,” we went from the trip high of our memorable Thanksgiving, to the low of running aground mid channel in Government Cut, though no mention of shoaling (supposedly a remnant of the hurricane) completely closing off the channel was noted in Active Captain, Waterway Guides, Nav Alerts, or even mentioned in my multiple conversations with the marina in Apalachicola.  In contrast to the tow received up the Ohio River (an event about which I need to dedicate a full post), we were greeted by a tow who manhandled my beloved Albion through nearly half a mile of shoaling with no concern or care for the boat or it’s beleaguered skipper, ultimately leaving us at anchor completely unprotected from the strong winds and waves ripping through the bay a far distance from the shore which Ziggy desperately needed to visit. Tired, frustrated, worried about our boat after its beating at the hands of TowBoat/US, and knowing that rather than crossing over to Cedar Key – a milestone leading us closer to warmer weather and the Keys, we would be spending Thanksgiving motoring through the ICW to Carabbelle where we would, having now lost our weather window, wait for the opportunity to cross.  When we arrived in Carabbelle, it was defined by melancholy as this was the first time in months slipped a marina where we did not know anyone, and it meant that we would be delayed in our crossing, and therefore unable to catch up to Livin’ the Dream. Needless to say, the date on which Thanksgiving was celebrated, was one marked by loneliness and defeat.

 

Matt Rutherford, who sailed solo non-stop around the Americas, has commented “Loneliness on land is different then [sic] loneliness at sea. On land there are people around so if your [sic] lonely you wonder, ‘Why doesn’t anyone want to talk to me’? At sea there is no one around to talk to so it isn’t as bad. Being alone doesn’t bother me.”[i] His sentiments have been true during this trip – sure, my friends back home gathered for the holiday from their various locations across the country may have been watching the Michigan State Football game without me, but I could not expect to be there with them – I was out pursuing my dream sailing the shores of America, but the holidays seem to magnify the emotions of loneliness, especially so with the town of Carrabelle being nearly totally shut down for the day, the marina quiet, and my sailing companions being scattered hundreds of miles away. However, it was just a date, a date that has been declared a national holiday, but also a date that was changed under Roosevelt to benefit the shopping season – the true Thanksgiving was celebrated at anchor in Mexico Beach with two people to whom I will forever be indebted and thankful. While on this holiday Ziggy and I were alone, we could rest easy knowing that our family was gathered together back home thinking of us, and friends and family were praying for our safe travels. We may have been alone in person, but not alone in thoughs and spirit.

 

To our pleasure, and I’m sure relief of my mother, the birth of a grandchild would lead to a delay in Livin’ the Dream’s travels south, providing enough extra days for Ziggy and I to cross over to Cedar Key (which was a very enjoyable “off the beaten path” stopover) where we spent a few days at anchor riding out a couple fronts bringing with them strong winds, then another overnight sail to Clearwater, and finally, reuniting with Livin’ the Dream in Maderia Beach.

 

 

So, from “the best of times, to the worst of times” and amongst the seasons of “Hope” and “Despair,” we continue to live our dream, sailing America’s Great Loop, working our way towards Key West, where our course will eventually head North back towards Lake Michigan and Livin’ the Dream will turn south deep into Paradise, – though separate in person, forever united through our journey together. For that, we are thankful.

 

 

[i]https://www.sail-worldcruising.com/n/Matt-Rutherford-solo-around-the-Americas-Exclusive-interview/-97114?source=google